Noctigon K1 flashlight review: Osram w1 LED, 600KCD
Noctigon K1 Introduction:
Intl-outdoor has been selling Noctigon MCPCB's for quite a few years. Hank decided to produce his own flashlight lineup under the name Emisar. The Noctigon K1 is, the second flashlight in the Noctigon lineup, after the Noctigon Meteor M43.
Probably the most exciting thing about this flashlight is the LED emitter. It's a white W1 CSLNM1.TG that is supposed to throw about 700kcd. Which is by far the highest intensity LED in flashlights.
What you'll get:
- Noctigon K1
- Extra rubber boot
- User Interface explanation
|Brand / Model||Noctigon K1|
|Beam intensity||650 Kcd|
|Review date||January 2020|
Handling of the light
It uses a single switch to activate and operate. The switch is located on the thinnest part of the head assembly. It's not completely recessed so it could be activated accidentally. Fortunately, Intl-Outdoor added a holster to carry this little bad boy.
Besides the holster, the package also includes a lanyard, in case you prefer using one of those. If you are thinking about carrying this with you for a long time, you should take this seriously. The head is just a bit too large to fit normal pockets. It also is just a tad front-heavy, but that is really neglectable.
It can tail stand, but that is not something you will use this light for, since it's a flashlight that is meant to throw a far beam.
Build Quality, knurling, threads, and anodization
When you use flashlights, you come to the understanding that not all flashlights are equal. Not only in terms of brightness or even usefulness but also in terms of build quality. The Noctigon is a very well designed and very well machined flashlight.
There are no problems anywhere to be found on the anodization.
The body tube has lots of great knurling and gives a great grip. Some flashlight manufacturers focus more on the UI or even the aesthetics but forget about the actual use of a flashlight. And Noctigon did a good job here.
LEDs, Lens, Bezel and Reflector
Hank, from Intl-outdoor, decided to use an Osram W1 CSLNM1.TG LED. This is currently the LED with the highest intensity currently on the market, that are used inside flashlights. It can produce about 900 lumens according to the seller, as well as throw almost 1 mile. That is some serious stuff. Especially since the emitter is only 1 square millimeter.
To keep the LED as cool as possible, and maintain its brightness, Hank added it onto a copper Noctigon MCPCB. The reflector is very smooth and the bezel is made of Stainless Steel! Strong and blingy.
Behind the switch cover are a few AUX LEDs placed. These are to indicate the battery level.
- < 2.9V: black
- 2.9V to 3.3V: red
- 3.3V to 3.5V: yellow (red+green)
- 3.5V to 3.7V: green
- 3.7V to 3.9V: cyan (green+blue)
- 3.9V to 4.1V: blue
- 4.1V to 4.4V: purple (blue+red)
- > 4.4V: white-ish (red+blue+green)
For me, this might be a little over the top. Nobody is going to remember these, but hey, this is just a fancy flashlight right?
- Length: 175 mm ( 6.89 ”)
- Head diameter: 72.2 mm ( 2.84 ”)
- Reflector diameter: 62mm (2.44")
- Body diameter: 26.5mm ( 1.05”)
- Empty: 318 g ( 11.23oz)
Size compared to the other farthest-reaching flashlights with 1 battery
You can see how large the reflector is compared to its competitors.
Driver & User Interface:
The Noctigon K1 uses the Anduril firmware, built by Toykeeper. It's the most sophisticated firmware available for flashlights, at the time of writing.
Check out the full Anduril UI manual here.
Keep in mind that the AUX LEDs are always on by default.
- Single-click: ON
- Double click: Turbo
- 3 clicks: Battery check
Enter Special/Fun modes from OFF:
- 2 clicks + hold: Strobe modes
- 4 clicks: Lock Out mode (momentary on: dim)
- 5 clicks: momentary mode (Bright) ( you can only deactivate by breaking electrical contact between the batteries and the driver by unscrewing the body from the head.
- 6 clicks: Muggle mode
- Single-click: Off
- Double click: Turbo
- 3 clicks: change ramping mode. Instead of a smooth increase, it has 6 little steps between Low and Max.
- 4 clicks: change to ramping configuration mode
- Press and hold: brightness ramps up.. release and press and hold again to ramp down.
SPECIAL AND FUN MODES:
Read the full manual on how to access and customize these modes. Also, see the firmware picture.
- Blinky Utility mode: (From OFF: click, click, click+hold)
- Battery check
- Sunset Mode
- Beacon mode
- Temperature check
- Strobe / Mood modes:
- Bike flasher
- Party strobe
- Tactical Strobe
- Lightning mode
- Lockout mode (can't use the light) (activate by 4 clicks from off)
- Momentary mode (signaling/morse coding)
- Muggle mode: (safer for children)
- Configuration mode
- Ramp config mode
- From OFF: 4 clicks. To deactivate click another 4 times.
Firmware / UI Conclusion:
The UI is very sophisticated and to my personal opinion not really fit for this type of flashlight. A thrower like this should be good with just the basic modes.
Batteries and charging:
The last few years we see more and more flashlight with built-in chargers. This is great for the non-flashoholics that don't want or don't need a special 18650 or 21700 Lithium Ion charger.
The K1 has a USB-C charge port that charges the battery inside the flashlight. But you need to unscrew the body from the head in order to use the charger because the charge port is hidden inside the threads.
This also means that you can't use the light while charging! Good to keep in mind.
Instead of the older, but more commong Micro USB port, Noctigon chose for a USB-C. If you ever wanted to get or gift a thrower, but were too afraid of buying Lithium Ion batteries and a charger, this might be something to start off with. You don't need to buy a dedicated Lithium Ion battery charger just to charge your batteries. This will save you money.
It works perfectly with flat top, unprotected 21700 batteries. It does not work with protected batteries like the Fenix ARB-L21!
TIP: Keep the tailcap unscrewed for storage, otherwise your battery will be dead in a few weeks or months time. Resting Amps is 0.02A. This is with the Switch LEDs on.
In Lock-Out mode (4 clicks from OFF) the same Amps can be measured.
It really has no point of using the electronic lockout IMHO.
All of my readings were taken from a fully-charged Samsung INR21700 40T.
Lumen and Amp measurements:
All output numbers are relative for my home-made Integrating Sphere and is now set up with an Extech SDL400 Lux Meter for measurements. For extremely bright flashlights (above 5000 lumens) I am adding a Kenko PRO1D ND-16 filter. The base measurement is done with a Convoy S2+ that has been tested at 137 lumens.
Amp measurement was done at the tailcap, not LED! I used the 7 Step brightness mode in order to measure the lumens. With the variable output you can only have 3 measurements, Low, High, Turbo. So hopefully this 7 modes+turbo makes more sense.
|Samsung 40T 21700||1: 0.04A||12 Lm|
|2: 0.15A||51 Lm|
|3: 0.38A||122 Lm|
|4: 0.79A||223 Lm|
|5: 1.42A||356 Lm|
|6: 2.30A||511 Lm|
|7: 3.51A||661 Lm|
|Turbo: 4.62A||780 Lm|
I would say that Turbo lasts for 1 hour and 28 minutes. By that time it already sagged to below 200 Lumens.
In the highest mode (7/7) the runtime graph looks like the one above. It looks the same as Turbo IMHO. And after 3 hours and 30 minutes, I stopped the runtime graph. I just don't want to damage the battery. When I took it out, it was at 2.98 Volts. I'm not 100% sure if there is a Low Voltage Protection. Runtime was only slightly better than in Turbo mode, and has a total of 1 hour and 32 minutes before the quickest drop in output.
Measurements were taken both indoors and outdoors with a professional Hagner E4-X Lux Meter. I took measurements at 10m and 20m outdoors.
- Outdoors (10m) High: 518,000 cd = 1439 m throw / 0.89 miles
- Outdoors (10m) Turbo: 600,000 cd = 1549 m throw / 0.96 miles
- Outdoors (20m) Turbo: 600,000 cd = 1549 m throw / 0.96 miles
A maximum throw of just under a mile is really good! The best of all single cell LED flashlights at the time of writing!
The following beamshots were taking at 3 different locations. It's important to keep all these beamshots together and not compare them with other reviews since the camera settings might be slightly different. The more powerful (10,000 lumens and up) the more I have to dial down the camera.
Noctigon K1 vs Lumintop GT Mini
Noctigon K1 vs Weltool T11
Noctigon K1 vs Speras T1
Noctigon K1 vs Astrolux FT03
Camera settings for the following pictures: 50mm, ISO 1600, F/4 0.5 Sec, 5000K
Distance to shed is about 60 meters, to the reflecting signs about 200 meters, to the church tower about 450 meters
Camera settings for the following pictures: 50mm, ISO 1600, F/4 0.8 Sec, 5000K
Tower is approximately 650 meters away. The Lumintop BLF GT Mini has no chance at this distance.
Noctigon K1 for sale