Olight H67

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Olight H67 specifications

Brand/model	Olight H67
Flashlight category	Headlamp / searchlight
LED	6*CREE XHP50.2
Max. output	12,000 Lumens
Max. beam distance	310 meters
Max. beam intensity	24,000 cd
Battery config.	Battery pack (14.4v / 100Wh)
Onboard charging	USB-C
Modes	4
Blinkies	SOS
Waterproof	IPX4
Review date	February 2023

The Olight H67 is not like your ordinary headlamp. It is the brightest headlamp in the world, and with some amazing features, like a GoPro mount, a remote battery pack, and a built-in cooling fan.

Besides this amazing piece of technology, Olight has a broad selection of lights. This includes some very popular flashlights and headlamps, and even penlights, lanterns, and desklamps. So, basically, they offer almost any type of portable light source under the sun.

Talking about suns, the Olight 67 does indeed turn the darkness into day light.

And to do so, it uses 6 CREE XHP50.2 LEDs which are cooled from the rear by a built-in fan, that is temperature controlled.

Well, I don’t want to spill all the beams.. I mean beans… so let’s dive into it.

Package quality.

I have seen many types of Olight packages over the years, but this one looks a bit different. It looks a bit cheap compared to the other ones, and I am only talking about the carton box though. Because inside the box you can find the H67 tucked in a nice pouch. And this is what you find inside the package:

• The headlamp: Olight H67
• Carry bag for the whole kit
• Remote battery pack with USB-C, inside a carry pouch
• USB-C cable
• Spare little clip for the remote battery pack cable
• Manual

If you look closely, you’ll notice that the H67 isn’t just a headlamp. Even though it is connected to a headband, the connection that is used is a GoPro mount.

That makes it extremely versatile and gives you lots of different options. Mounting on top of a bike helmet is one, but there are plenty more, including mounting it onto your bike, motorbike, chest mount harness, or even a car. As long as it uses a GoPro mount, you are good to go. Great for camping, biking, or even a backup light for your car or truck.

So, you aren’t limited to just wearing it on your head. And unlike the average headlamp, it has a heavy remote backpack with a capacity of 100Wh. And since it’s so big and heavy, it’s recommended to put it in your backpack, close to your body, so you can keep it relatively warm in low temperatures. But Olight also includes a carry bag, that can be connected to a belt via a velcro strap.

Another benefit of the remote battery pack is that there is no heavy weight added to your head. During my bike ride, I didn’t have a feeling that it was too heavy or bouncing too much on my head.

And honestly, in most cases, the low mode would have been enough for me, but I couldn’t stop myself from double-tapping the switch a couple of times.. Why? Because, why not?

Even though this light is great for night hikes, it’s probably more suitable for biking, or other high-speed activities. The Dutch Olight website even mentions Night skiing, mountain biking, and endurance riding.

High-speed activities also help keep the headlamp cooled. But even if you walk or sit still, there is a built-in fan to keep the light’s temperature in check. And it really helps. Even in Turbo mode, I measured the highest temperature at only 59 degrees. The fan is temperature controlled, so it doesn’t turn on when it’s not needed.

When you use the 12,000-lumen mode, eventual the fan will turn on, which is pretty audible. And honestly, the 12,000 lumens are impressive, it’s probably overkill for most situations, lol.

The switch is prominently positioned on top of the headlamp unit, making it easy to find and use, even wearing gloves. It doesn’t have a small button switch like most other headlamps, it’s basically half of the top of the headlamp unit. It’s so big, you can’t really miss it.

That makes it easy to use, but will also accidentally change modes by accidentally tapping it.

Wearing it:

The headband has the usual strap around your head, as well as a strap that goes on top of your head. Both of them are adjustable and have no sharp edges. They are also relatively easy to adjust while riding your bike.. (without having your hands on the handlebar)

There is a little design issue in my opinion. The remote battery pack is connected to the headlamp with a strong and thick cable, that comes out of the headlamp at the bottom right-hand side. Without any adjustment, it comes into the field of vision, so that could be annoying. So you’d have to make it tighter, or use something to attach it to the side of the headband (like a clip or a velcro strap).

The headband itself has a little loop to run this cable through on the left-hand side. But I think it should have been on the right-hand side, or on the top (as the product image makes you believe). If you want to pull the cable through that little loop on the left-hand side, it’s blocking your sight.

Olight uses high-quality materials with all of its products, including the H67.

The headband is pretty comfortable and adjustable. There is no place where your head is touching anything hard or sharp. The headband seems to be plenty durable, and the GoPro mount doesn’t look too cheap either. While riding your bike, it’s pretty easy to loosen the GoPro mount and adjust the direction of the headlamp.

The cable that’s connecting the headlamp and battery pack is thick and strong I wouldn’t worry about breaking it. I carried the battery pack in my jacket pocket, which was no trouble at all.

Olight’s warranty is one of the best in the industry: 30-day no-hassle returns and a 5-year limited lifetime warranty on most lights. Defective lights can be returned for repair within the warranty period, but the buyer pays for shipping. Olight covers the cost of repairs and parts. Even after-warranty support is generous with a 30% discount for a replacement item. Rechargeable batteries are covered with a 1-year warranty. Accessories such as pocket clips, holsters, filters, lanyards, etc. are not included under the warranty.

The H67 uses 6* CREE XHP50.2 LEDs to produce a total lumen output of 12,000 lumens. And that’s insane because no other headlamp is able to achieve that.

There are 3 LEDS on top, and 3 at the bottom, all sitting behind TIR optics.

These CREE LEDs aren’t known for their fine characteristics like High CRI or even the best tint, but they do produce a wall of light. And I must admit, that these TIR optics probably help with reducing the CREE rainbow effect seen on other flashlights with these LEDs.

And we don’t just ‘describe’ the color of the beam, or the tint of the beam, we measure it.

This time, I used the very popular Opple Light Master 3, as well as the Asensetek Lighting Passport Pro Spectrometer.

Unfortunately, the spectrometer’s sensor is quickly over-saturated, so I measured High mode instead of Turbo mode. Turbo mode’s measurements weren’t too trustable.

Opple Light master 3:

• CCT 5970K
• CRI Ra: 71.7

Asensetek Lighting Passport Pro

• CCT: 6333K
• CRI Ra: 73
• CRI R1-R15: 65

The beam:

With 6 CREE XHP50.2’s in shallow TIR optics, the beam is very wide and bright. There is definitely a brighter spot in the middle, but it’s not very defined. The beam has a relatively smooth and nice transition from hotspot to spill.

While riding a bike, you have plenty of side view, which in my opinion is very important. You can’t have enough side spill on a bike light/ headlamp used for biking.

Dimensions: 

It’s a bit difficult to measure this headlamp.

Olight H67	Millimeters	Inches
The widest part of the headlamp	67 mm	2.6 in
Height	54 mm	2.1 in

Dimensions are rounded to the nearest millimeter, and to the nearest tenth of an Inch.

Weight: 

Olight H67	Weight in grams	Weight in oz.
Lamp + strap and cable	300 g	10.58 oz
Battery pack	559 g	19.72 oz

Weight is rounded to the nearest gram, and to the nearest tenth of an Oz.

Olight H67 comparison

Size compared to 2 other headlamps

Group 1, from left to right: Olight Perun Mini 2, Olight H67, Fenix HM50R v2.

I know they are not really competitors, but it gives you a good indication of the size.

Group 2, Silva Spectra, Magicshine Monteer 12000, Olight H67

The top of the headlamp is a large switch, covering about 60% of the head. This makes it really easy to change mode, and turn it on/off. There is a mechanical lock switch to reduce the likelihood of accidental activation/deactivation.

You run through the modes by clicking, and a long press for off. This is the perfect UI even though many people may not like the long press for off. There is no other way around it. You don’t want to press and hold to change brightness while going downhill. A quick tap on the switch will change the brightness, and a double click goes to Turbo.

Available main modes:

• Low, Medium, High, Turbo

Available special modes (blinkies):

• SOS

From OFF:

• Single-click:  to last used mode, because it memorizes the last used mode (except for Turbo)
• Double click: Turbo
• 3+ clicks: Turbo
• Press and hold: SOS

From ON:

• Single-click: Cycle through the menu from Low to High, and back from Low again
• Double click: Turbo
• 3+ clicks: still Turbo
• Press and hold: turn off

Shortcuts:

• To Turbo: double click from on/off
• To SOS: long-press from off

Mode memory:

• Yes, it does memorize the mode, except Turbo.

Blinky modes menu:

• SOS, which is only accessible from Off.. And that’s how it is supposed to be on this type of headlamp.

Low battery warning:

• You can only see it on the battery pack, not on the light itself. At least, I haven’t noticed it in the runtime tests.

Lock-out mode:

• There is a mechanical switch on top of the lamp. The lockout mode works while the light is turned off, but it also works when the light is turned on. Great feature. Especially if you are walking through woods, and you accidentally touch the switch with a branch, it won’t change modes.

PWM:

• Not visible by eye.

Firmware / UI Conclusion:

I like the UI although I had to get used to it, with the single click for on, but a long press for off. The large switch is excellent.

With a 65-watt USB C charger: 4 hours and 32 minutes from start to finish. Charged at 19V and 1.4A and about 29 Watts.

With a 17-watt charger, it charged at 12V and 1.6A… at about 19.44 Watts Charging time: 6 hours and 46 minutes. But the last 45 minutes were slow charging, and you could have easily unplugged it.

During the charge, there are 4 LED lights visible on the battery pack. They start off with 1 and increase to 4. When all 4 LEDs are solid, the charge has finished.

You can charge at 5V, 9V, 12V, and 20V, so you don’t have to have the highest wattage USB power source, but you just need to wait for a bit longer.

And since the battery pack is removable, you could get a spare one, and extend the battery life without recharging. However, the battery pack is really heavy, so I’m not sure that is what you want to keep carrying around with you.

This is the gear I used for testing:

Gear	Purpose	Link to buy
Hagner E4-X	Measuring beam intensity (throw)	Inquire at Hagner.se
Extech SDL400	Lumens and logging runtimes	Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk,
Leica Disto D2	Distance for throw measurements	Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk,
Asensetek Lighting Passport Pro Standard	Spectrometer for LED measurements	–

Lumen measurements:

The output measurements in this review are based on my homemade integrating spheres, each equipped with an Extech SDL400 Lux Meter. For consistency and accuracy, a calibration light (Convoy S2+ with 249lm and a Convoy S2+ with 261lm) is measured prior to each set of lumen measurements.
For high-output lights, one of the lux meters uses an ND camera filter to prevent the lux meter to max out. This is either the Kenko PRO1D ND16 up till about 80,000 lumens or Gobe ND32 for anything above.

All of my readings were taken from a fully-charged battery pack.

The measurements were taken manually at turn on and 30 seconds. The 10 minute numbers are taken from the runtime graph.

Mode	Specs	at turn on	30 sec	10 minutes
Low	400	494 lm	494 lm	493 lm
Med	1200	1,313 lm	1,313 lm	1,288 lm
High	4000	4,249 lm	4,213 lm	3,954 lm
Turbo	12000 lm	14,322 lm	13,371 lm	6,139 lm

I try to use rounded lumen numbers, except for maybe Low or Moonlight/Firefly modes.

Olight H67 Battery life and runtime graphs

The runtime test was done with the 50cm home made integrating sphere, combined with the Extech SDL400 data logging Lux Meter.

Mode	Specified	Measured runtime (ANSI FL1)	Time till shut off
Low	38h	30h 26min	30h 26min
Med	13h	11h 32min	11h 32min
High	3h + 1h = 4h	3h 52min	3h 52min
Turbo*	2min+100min = 1h 42min	1h 44min	2h 42min

Keep in mind that the manual states there is a Motion sensor built in. This is used to maintain a constant brightness output in high-speed movement, and auto-reduce the output gradually in low-speed movement, extending lighting time. So my measurements were done in an environment where I didn’t activate the motion sensor, so that might be

The built-in fan also works wonders and keeps the light in high sustained output, and temperature controlled. Once the light cools off, the fan rotates at a lower speed and eventually turns off.

Turbo has a runtime of 1h and 44 minutes according to ANSI standards, but the light keeps running at over 1000 lumens till it turns off almost 1 hour later. Pretty incredible

High steps down at 2h 53min but then continues running for another 1 hour. There is no warning at the end of its battery life, so you need to keep this in mind.

Unfortunately, Medium mode and Low mode didn’t come close to the specced runtimes.

About ANSI FL1 standards: The runtime is measured until the light drops to 10% of its initial output (30 seconds after turning on). This does not mean that the flashlight is not usable anymore. The last column shows how long the light actually works till it shuts off. If there is a + symbol, it means that the test was stopped at that particular point, but the light was actually still running. This happens on certain occasions, with certain drivers, firmware, or batteries.

Olight H67 Peak beam intensity and beam distance measurements

Measurements were taken indoors with a Hagner E4-X Lux Meter at 5 meters. The measurements were recorded 30 seconds after activation.

Mode	Specs	Candelas measured	Meters	Yards
Low	60m	1,275 cd	71 m	78 yd
Med	100m	3,450 cd	117 m	128 yd
High	180m	11,550 cd	215 m	235 yd
Turbo	310m / 24,000 cd	35,775 cd	378 m	414 yd

It easily outperformed the specs in all modes.

About peak beam intensity: Peak beam distance according to ANSI FL1 standards: The calculated value of distance in meters at which the flashlight produces a light intensity of 0.25 lux. (0.25 lux is about the brightness of a full moon shining on an object). The columns ‘Meters’ and ‘Yards’ use rounded numbers.

For the following beamshots, I used a Canon EOS 5D Mk2 with a 50mm lens. Manual settings: ISO1600, 1/4sec, F4, 5000K

The shed is about 65 meters / 71 yards away, and the reflective fence is about 200 meters.

The following lights are compared:

• Olight H67
• Olight Marauder 2
• Olight Marauder Mini
• FireFlies PL47 g2
• Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max

Disclaimer: I bought this flashlight with my own money. Nobody paid me to review this flashlight, nor have I been holding back on problems or defects.